Every load cell pedal set on the market is sold with a big number on the box. Logitech's says 165.34 lbs — 75 kg. Fanatec, MOZA, Thrustmaster, all of them do the same thing.
Almost nobody explains what that number is, and it costs people lap time.
Here's the honest version, straight out of Logitech's own setup guide: the load cell in the RS brake module can support up to 75 kg of force, but the factory setting is 30% of that — 22.5 kg to reach 100% brake output. The 75 kg is the sensor's ceiling. It is not what you'll be pushing, and for most people it never should be.
That gap between the marketing number and the shipping setting is the single most useful thing to understand about these pedals, so let's start there and work outwards.
What you get for the money
At the time of writing the RS Pedals are $149.99 on Logitech's US store, down from a $159.99 list. That buys a two-pedal set: a Hall effect throttle and a load cell brake on a steel-framed heel plate.
The box contains the gas pedal, the brake pedal, the heel plate, two extenders that double as wall braces, two brake spacers, two carpet grips, two rig mount spacers, mounting bolts and nuts, a hex key, two cable clips and the documentation.
The hard numbers, from Logitech's published spec sheet:
| Spec | Value |
|---|---|
| Width | 378.8 mm / 14.90 in |
| Height | 203.5 mm / 8.01 in |
| Depth | 381.6 mm (421.8 mm with extender) |
| Weight | 3.5 kg / 7.72 lbs |
| Cable | 2 m / 6.6 ft |
| Material | PCR ABS, steel |
| Connection | USB, HID |
| Software | G HUB |
Note what is not in that list: a clutch. The RS Clutch Module is a separate $44.99 purchase. If you drive anything with a manual box — historics, road cars, rally — budget for it up front rather than discovering it later.
The throttle uses a contactless Hall effect sensor, which matters more than it sounds. Potentiometers wear. A magnet-based sensor has nothing rubbing against anything, so the throttle you have in year four behaves like the throttle you had in week one. On a G29 or G920, the throttle is one of the first things to start misbehaving.
The 75 kg headline vs the 22.5 kg reality
Logitech is unusually straight about this in the manual. The full-fat 75 kg figure, they say, "is typically only reserved for when you are using the RS Pedals in a Sim Rig/Chair" — and even there, they add, some people will find that requiring 75 kg to reach maximum brake output is too much.
They're right, and here's why from the driving side.
In a real car, the brake pedal doesn't move much once the pads bite. What you modulate is pressure, not travel. Your leg learns a force, not a distance. That's the entire argument for load cell pedals over potentiometer ones, and it's why the switch is worth more lap time than almost any other hardware upgrade at this price — it's the same reason I keep pushing pedals ahead of torque for anyone coming off an entry wheel.
But the force you calibrate to has to be a force you can actually repeat, lap after lap, hour eighteen of an endurance race included. If you set 75 kg on a rig and can just about hit it fresh, you will not hit it at the end of a stint. Your braking points will drift long as you fatigue and you'll never work out why.
Set it where you can hit 100% comfortably and repeatably, then leave it alone long enough for your leg to learn it. Consistency beats theatre.
The default 22.5 kg is a sensible starting point on a desk or a wheel stand, where you have no bracing behind you and any harder setting just pushes the whole assembly away from you.
Tuning brake feel: the damper stack
Brake force (the number you calibrate) and brake feel (what your foot senses on the way there) are two separate adjustments on these pedals, and people conflate them constantly.
Feel is mechanical. The RS brake pedal carries a stack of three dampers separated by three dividers, plus two plastic spacers you can swap in. Swap a damper for a spacer and the pedal gets firmer, because you've replaced compressible rubber with something that doesn't compress.
The stack pulls off by hand — thumbs on the edge of the pedal module, index fingers hooked over the grips either side, pull using the pedal face as leverage. No tools. Take the blue load cell module off first and set it aside without yanking on its wire, then the dampers and dividers come off the rod one at a time.
Two rules from Logitech worth respecting:
- One damper must always be present, and it must be the top piece on the stack — closest to the pedal arm. Don't build an all-spacer stack.
- On reassembly, everything goes on the rod first, and the blue load cell module goes on last.
Logitech also notes that a stiffer pedal is generally only worth it on a rig or racing chair, where you have something behind you to push against. On a desk setup, a stiff pedal mostly just teaches you to brace with your back.
My advice: change one piece at a time and drive twenty laps before deciding. Brake feel is one of those things where the first five minutes always feel wrong and the next hour tells you the truth.
Three ways to set brake force — and you only have one of them
The force setting lives in the pedals' own memory, so it follows the hardware rather than the PC. How you change it depends entirely on what you've plugged them into:
- Connected to a Logitech wheel base (RS50 or PRO): the Brake Force setting on the base's OLED screen. The pedals have to be connected to the back of the wheel for the option to appear.
- Connected straight to a PC over USB: G HUB.
- Connected to a G29, G920 or G923 via the Racing Adapter: the dial on the adapter itself.
That third path is the interesting one for most readers of this site, because the G29/G920/G923 install base is enormous. Logitech's Racing Adapter is $39.99 and it is what lets you keep your existing wheel and bolt modern pedals onto it — or keep your existing pedals and move to a new base. Either direction works, with G25, G27, G29, G920 and G923 all listed as compatible.
The console catch
This one is buried in the manual and it catches people out.
On console, the RS Pedals must be connected to the Logitech steering wheel you're using — not to a USB port on the console. And if that wheel is a G29, G920 or G923, the Racing Adapter is required to make the connection. Logitech's own spec sheet lists OS support at release as Windows 10 and Windows 11 only; the console route runs through the wheel, every time.
So the real price for a console G923 owner is $149.99 + $39.99 = $189.98 before you've thought about the clutch. Still good value against the alternatives, but not the number on the product page.
On PC it's simpler. The manual says most titles will accept the pedals as their own USB device — including alongside another manufacturer's wheel — though some games behave better with the pedals routed through a Logitech base. If you're running a MOZA or Fanatec wheel and just want a better brake, that's a legitimate option, and worth knowing before you look at the pricier sets in our load cell pedal roundup.
G HUB curves: the free improvement nobody uses
The G HUB sensitivity slider defaults to 50, which gives you a linear translation of pedal input to game output. Below 50 the pedal gets progressively less sensitive at the start of its travel; above 50, more sensitive.
Under the Advanced toggle you get the full curve editor. You can't edit the presets directly — duplicate one first, then drag its points. Horizontal axis is what your foot does, vertical is what the game receives.
The one adjustment I'd recommend to everyone: a small deadzone at the start of the brake travel. Drag the first point to the right along the 0% output line, or type a value into Lower Deadzone. On a long straight you naturally rest your left foot on the brake, and without a deadzone that's a permanent light brake input — a real problem in anything with brake-based traction or stability aids reading your inputs. It's free, it takes thirty seconds, and it's the sort of small housekeeping that separates clean laps from mystifying ones. If you're still learning to modulate pressure rather than stamp, our trail braking guide is the technique half of this equation.
The same editor can widen a clutch bite point, which is genuinely useful for standing starts — though you'll have to find the axis value that matches your sim by trial and error.
Two things worth knowing before you unbox
Don't remove the foam under the heel plate. There's a strip of conductive foam on the underside and Logitech says it should not be removed under any circumstances — doing so can impair how the pedals function. It looks like packing material. It isn't.
The clutch can become a brake. If you buy the clutch module, you can connect its plug to the Brake port on the gas pedal module instead, and use it as a conventional non-load-cell brake. Niche, but it's there — handy for drift setups or for handing the rig to someone who finds a load cell brake brutal.
Verdict
For $149.99 this is the most sensible first upgrade for anyone on a G29, G920 or G923 who's serious about going faster. A load cell brake teaches your leg to think in pressure, the Hall effect throttle won't drift as it ages, and the steel frame means the thing you're pushing against doesn't flex and lie to you.
The reservations are real but small: it's a two-pedal set at that price, the clutch is $44.99 more, and console owners need a $39.99 adapter. If you want a metal-bodied throttle and clutch or a hydraulic brake, you're in a different budget entirely — start with the pricier options here or the Thrustmaster T-LCM if you're already in that ecosystem.
But as the answer to "what single thing makes me quicker for $150", pedals before torque is still the right call, and these are a very well-documented, well-supported way to do it. Pair them with the RS50 base and you have a complete modern Logitech setup; bolt them onto the G923 you already own and you've spent a fraction of that for most of the benefit. If you're weighing the whole ecosystem against its rivals first, our brand comparison covers that ground.
FAQ
Do the Logitech RS Pedals really need 75 kg of force?
No. 75 kg is the maximum the load cell can support. The factory default is 30% of that — 22.5 kg to reach 100% brake output — and you can set it anywhere you like via the wheel base's OLED screen, G HUB, or the Racing Adapter dial.
Do the RS Pedals work with a G29, G920 or G923?
Yes, using the Logitech G Racing Adapter ($39.99), which also carries the dial for adjusting brake force. G25 and G27 wheels are listed as compatible too.
Do the RS Pedals work on PS5 or Xbox?
Yes, but they must be connected to your Logitech steering wheel rather than to a USB port on the console. With a G29/G920/G923 that means the Racing Adapter is required. Logitech lists Windows 10 and 11 as the OS support at release.
Do the RS Pedals include a clutch?
No. It's a two-pedal set. The RS Clutch Module is sold separately at $44.99 and mounts on the left of the heel plate, with the brake moving to the middle.
How do I make the brake pedal stiffer?
Pull the damper stack off the brake pedal by hand and swap one of the three dampers for one of the two supplied plastic spacers. Always keep at least one damper, and always as the top piece of the stack. Logitech recommends a stiffer pedal only on a rig or racing chair.
Can I use the RS Pedals with a MOZA, Fanatec or Thrustmaster wheel?
On PC, mostly yes — Logitech's manual says most titles accept the pedals as their own USB device regardless of which brand's wheel you're running, though a few behave better with the pedals routed through a Logitech base. On console, no: the pedals must connect through a Logitech wheel.
Does the throttle wear out like a G29's?
It shouldn't in the same way. The RS throttle is a contactless Hall effect sensor, so there's no physical wiper track to degrade the way a potentiometer's does.