Every MOZA wheelbase ships with a force feedback tool that almost nobody uses and almost nobody can explain. It sits in Pit House as its own tab, next to the sliders everyone argues about on Discord, and it quietly reshapes every force the base sends to your hands.
That's the force feedback curve. In the current software it appears as a Base FFB Curve tab alongside Basic Settings, Advanced Settings, the FFB Effect Equalizer and Miscellaneous — MOZA's own Pit House walkthrough lists it in exactly that order.
Here's the odd part. MOZA describes what the tool is for on the Pit House product page — "the innovative force feedback curve adjustment tool lets you create a non-linear relationship between force feedback input and output" — and then documents essentially nothing else about it. The official Pit House user manual (last modified 1 June) walks through basic settings, professional settings, the preset library, the road-sense equalizer, the wheel, pedal, dashboard and firmware pages, and never covers the curve tab at all. MOZA's own complete FFB settings guide from January 2025 covers Basic, Advanced and the equalizer in detail and stops there.
So this is me filling a gap MOZA left, from the engineering side rather than the marketing side. I gave the curve one paragraph in my Pit House settings guide; it deserves a page.
What the curve actually changes
Think of your wheelbase as a translator. The sim calculates a steering torque — the force the front tyres are putting through the rack at that instant — and sends it as a number. The base converts that number into actual Newton metres at your hands.
By default that conversion is linear: double the force in the sim, double the torque at the rim. The curve tool lets you break that relationship deliberately. You can make small forces feel bigger than they should be, or big forces feel smaller than they should be, or both at once.
That's the whole feature. It is an amplitude tool — it maps input strength to output strength.
Curve vs equalizer vs damping — three different things
Most of the bad advice on this topic comes from people mixing up three separate tools:
- The FFB curve works on force magnitude. How hard is this force, and how hard should it be at the rim?
- The FFB Effect Equalizer works on frequency. MOZA's own documentation maps its bands: 0 Hz operating wheel, 10 Hz body bumps, 15 Hz kerb effects at 80 km/h, 25 Hz ABS vibration, 40 Hz kerbs at 160 km/h, 50 Hz grass, 100 Hz high-speed kerbs and sand. That's about what kind of force, not how strong the load is.
- Damping, friction and inertia aren't sim forces at all. They're mechanical effects the base generates on its own to simulate a steering system's weight and resistance.
There's a specific trap here. You'll see people online explain "the MOZA linearity setting" and then describe the speed-dependent damping parameter — the one where 100% keeps damping linear with speed. That's a damping behaviour. It has nothing to do with the Base FFB Curve, and following that advice means adjusting the wrong slider entirely.
Why linear is the correct default
In a real car, the steering wheel is not a notification system. It's a load path. What you feel is front axle load and slip angle arriving through the rack, and the reason it's useful is that it's proportional. When the front tyre starts giving up, the wheel goes light, and it goes light by an amount that tells you how much you've overdone it.
I spent years in F3, F2 and GT3 cars learning to read exactly that. The information isn't in any single force — it's in the ratio between them.
The moment you bend the curve, you break that ratio. Boost the low end and every small force shouts at you, which feels detailed for about three laps and then leaves you unable to tell a bumpy surface from the front tyre letting go. Squash the top end and the wheel stops going properly heavy when the car loads up, which is the single clearest signal you have on corner entry.
So: linear until you have a specific reason not to be. That's not conservatism, it's keeping the signal honest. It's the same principle behind running iRacing's linear mode with min force at zero on a direct drive base, which is exactly how I set up in my iRacing wheel and FFB settings guide.
The three cases where bending it is justified
1. A low-torque base that can't express the whole range. On a 5 Nm base, the difference between a light front end and a loaded front end is a couple of Newton metres of actual torque. Lifting the lower part of the curve genuinely recovers information you'd otherwise never feel. This is the strongest case for the tool, and it's why the setting matters more on an R3 or R5 than on an R21.
2. A high-torque base you can't hold onto for a full stint. A 16 or 21 Nm base at 100% will physically wear you out. Most people fix this with game FFB intensity or the maximum output torque limit — MOZA's own guidance suggests 70–90% intensity and a 70–80% torque limit on its bigger bases. Both of those scale everything evenly, which is exactly what you want. Flattening the top of the curve instead preserves detail in the small forces while capping the violent hits. It's a real technique, but it's the second answer, not the first.
3. Compensating for a sim that outputs badly. Some titles deliver a narrow, compressed force range no matter what you do in the settings menu. If you've exhausted the in-game options — and in most sims you should start there, as in my ACC force feedback settings — a mild curve adjustment is a legitimate last resort.
Notice that none of those three is "make it feel better." If the base already communicates what the front axle is doing, leave the curve alone.
Why I'm not giving you point coordinates
You'll find guides listing exact curve points to punch in. I'm not doing that, for two reasons.
MOZA doesn't publish the axis units or the number of control points for this tool anywhere in its official documentation, and the Pit House interface has changed repeatedly between builds. The preset list is a good illustration: MOZA's January 2025 guide names five presets — GT, Formula 1, Rally, Drift and Trucks — while an older walkthrough of the same software describes GT, Performance, Formula, Kart, Drift and Rally. Same software, different builds, different UI. Any specific numbers I published today would be wrong for somebody's version tomorrow.
The second reason is simpler: a copied curve is worthless. The whole point is matching output to your base's torque ceiling and your hands.
How to test a curve change properly
Do this like a test day, not like a settings menu.
Pick one car and one track you know deeply, ideally with a long, steady-state corner and a heavy braking zone. Run five clean laps on a linear curve first and pay attention to two specific moments: how the wheel lightens at the limit of front grip, and how much it loads mid-corner.
Change one thing. Run five more laps. Ask a single question — can I still tell exactly when the front is going? If the answer is anything other than a clear yes, put it back.
Do it in a car with honest FFB. A modern GT3 with power steering is a poor test bed because the assistance already flattens the signal. A formula car or a historic without power steering tells you far more, and set your rotation correctly first — see the steering lock guide if you're unsure what your car should be running.
Fix these before you touch the curve
Order of operations, in the sequence I'd actually work through:
- Steering angle, matched between Pit House and the sim.
- Game FFB intensity — the honest global volume control.
- Maximum output torque limit — your safety ceiling.
- Road sensitivity, then damping and friction to kill oscillation.
- The equalizer, if a specific effect is too weak or too loud.
- The curve, last, and only for one of the three reasons above.
If you're on an R9 and starting from scratch, my MOZA R9 settings page is the baseline to work from, and the MOZA buying guide covers which base suits which discipline. If you're still deciding on hardware, the four-brand comparison has the current lineups and prices.
FAQ
What is the Base FFB Curve in MOZA Pit House? It's a tool that changes the relationship between the force the sim sends and the torque the wheelbase produces. Left alone, that relationship is linear. The curve lets you make it non-linear — boosting weak forces, capping strong ones, or both.
Should I use a linear FFB curve on my MOZA? Yes, as your starting point and probably as your finishing point. Linear preserves the proportional relationship between forces, which is the information you actually drive with. Change it only for a specific, identified problem.
Is the FFB curve the same as the FFB equalizer? No. The curve works on how strong forces are; the equalizer works on which frequencies come through. If you want more ABS vibration or stronger kerbs, that's the equalizer.
My wheel feels weak in the centre — is the curve the fix? Possibly, on a low-torque base. But check the obvious causes first: game FFB intensity below 100%, in-game strength set too low, or a min-force setting doing nothing on a direct drive base. A dead centre is more often a sim setting than a curve problem. My direct drive explainer covers why these bases don't need the deadzone tricks older gear-driven wheels did.
Does changing the FFB curve make me faster? Not directly. It can make you faster indirectly if it lets you read the front axle earlier, and slower if it hides the signal under boosted noise. Treat it as a communication tool, not a performance mod.
Where is the official MOZA documentation for this? That's the frustrating answer: there isn't much. MOZA describes the tool's purpose on the Pit House product page, and the tab is listed in MOZA's own Pit House walkthrough, but the official user manual doesn't cover it. Check your own build — the interface has changed across versions.
Software behaviour verified against MOZA's official Pit House product page, the MOZA Pit House user manual and MOZA's published FFB settings guides on 12 August 2026. Where MOZA's own sources disagree, I've said so rather than picked one. Pit House's interface changes between builds — check yours before copying anything.