These are the RaceRoom settings I would start from on a Logitech G29, G920 or G923. There are two places to set things: G HUB on the desktop, and the force feedback menu in the game. Both matter. If G HUB is wrong, nothing you do in the game will fix it.
One thing first. The three wheels are the same thing for RaceRoom. Same motor, same gears, and Logitech publishes no torque figure for any of them. The G923's TrueForce only works in games that support it, and RaceRoom is not on that list as far as I can find, so the G923 runs as a G29 here. The values below are for all three.
G HUB settings
Open G HUB, pick the wheel, and make a profile for RaceRoom so these do not leak into your other games.
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Operating range | 900 degrees |
| Sensitivity | 50 |
| Centering spring | Off |
| Clutch, brake, throttle sensitivity | 50 |
| Combined pedals | Off |
Operating range at 900 is the one that matters. RaceRoom reads the full range and sets the steering lock per car, so if you set 540 in G HUB the game still thinks you have 900 and the car turns twice as fast as your hands. Leave it at 900 and let the game do the rest.
Centering spring off. The game produces its own centering force from the physics. A spring on top of that is a fake force fighting a real one.
RaceRoom force feedback settings
In the game, go to Options, Controls, then the force feedback page. The menu has three parts: essential, physics based and immersion.
Essential
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Force feedback | On |
| Inverted force feedback | Off |
If the wheel pulls the wrong way out of corners, that second line is the fix. Logitech wheels do not need it, but a wrong profile can set it.
Physics based
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| FFB strength | 100% |
| FFB minimum force | 14% |
| FFB maximum force | 100% |
| Stationary friction | 50% |
FFB strength is the master volume. On a direct drive base you turn it down to stop the wheel ripping your hands off. On a Logitech there is nothing to turn down. 100%.
FFB minimum force is the setting that makes a Logitech wheel usable in this game. The gears and the motor have a dead zone: the game asks for a small force and the wheel does nothing. Minimum force lifts every small signal up to a level the wheel can actually produce. 14% is where I would start. If the wheel still feels empty on the straight and in the first part of turn-in, go up two points at a time. If it starts to buzz or notch on the straight, you went too far.
FFB maximum force is the clipping point, the level above which the game cuts the signal. At 100% nothing is cut. Leave it.
Stationary friction is the weight of the wheel when the car is stopped. It does not matter on track. 50% is fine.
Immersion
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Engine vibrations | 0 to 5% |
| Bump amplification | 0 to 5% |
| Gearshift effects | 0 to 5% |
These three are canned effects on top of the physics. Start at 0. Drive ten laps. If you miss the engine or the kerbs, add 5%. Never go higher on a gear driven wheel: the gears amplify every rattle and the real signal from the tyres gets buried.
Bump amplification is the one I would keep lowest. RaceRoom's kerbs already come through the physics. Amplified, they make the G29 sound like a bag of bolts and they hide the slide you are trying to feel.
How to tune from there
Change one thing at a time and drive five laps before you judge it. My order:
| Problem | First change |
|---|---|
| Wheel feels dead on the straight and at turn-in | Raise FFB minimum force by 2 points |
| Wheel buzzes or notches on the straight | Lower FFB minimum force by 2 points |
| Wheel rattles over kerbs | Set bump amplification to 0, then check G HUB has no vibration profile on |
| Car turns faster than your hands | G HUB operating range back to 900 |
| Wheel pulls the wrong way | Inverted force feedback off |
| Wheel goes light in the middle of fast corners | That is clipping. Lower FFB strength to 90% and raise minimum force by 2 |
That last line is the only reason to take FFB strength below 100% on a Logitech. In a high downforce car in a fast corner the game can ask for more than the motor has, and when it does the wheel flattens out and you lose the slide. Dropping strength gives the peaks room. You trade a little weight for the detail at the limit.
The cars that need a different setting
RaceRoom has everything from the Formula RaceRoom to the touring cars and the old DTM. With a Logitech, two groups need attention:
- Formula cars and prototypes. High downforce means high steering forces. These are the ones that clip. Run FFB strength at 90% and minimum force at 12% in them.
- Touring cars and GT4. Lighter steering, lower forces. The 14% minimum force earns its keep here. If anything, go to 16%.
My best RaceRoom cars to buy page tells you which ones are worth your money, and the free cars list is where I would set the wheel up first, before you spend anything.
Where I got the numbers
I do not have RaceRoom installed today, so the slider names and the values on this page come from current community guides and from Logitech's own G HUB defaults, checked on 9 October 2026. The names match what the game's force feedback menu shows in 2026: FFB strength, minimum force, maximum force, stationary friction, and the three immersion sliders. If KW Studios renames a slider in an update, the logic above still holds: master volume, dead zone lift, clipping point, canned effects.
If you want to go deeper into what each force does, my best RaceRoom wheel and FFB settings page covers every brand, and the RaceRoom controller settings page is there if you also drive on a pad.
FAQ
What are the best RaceRoom settings for the Logitech G29?
G HUB at 900 degrees with the centering spring off. In the game, FFB strength 100%, minimum force 14%, maximum force 100%, stationary friction 50%, and the three immersion effects at 0 to 5%.
Are the G920 and G923 settings the same as the G29?
Yes. The three wheels share the motor and the gears. The G923's TrueForce needs a game that supports it, and RaceRoom does not as far as I can find, so it runs the same as a G29.
Why does my Logitech wheel feel weak in RaceRoom?
Three usual causes. The G HUB profile has the centering spring on, FFB minimum force is at 0% so the small forces never reach the rim, or FFB strength has been lowered by an old profile. Fix them in that order.
Should FFB minimum force be 0% on a Logitech?
No. 0% is for direct drive bases that can produce the small forces on their own. A gear driven wheel needs the lift. Start at 14% and tune two points at a time.
Why does the wheel rattle over kerbs?
Bump amplification. Set it to 0% and the kerbs still come through the physics, without the gears being hammered. Also check that G HUB has no vibration effect added on top.
What degrees of rotation should I use in RaceRoom?
900 in G HUB. The game sets the steering lock per car from there, so you do not need to change it between a formula car and a touring car.
Does RaceRoom support TrueForce on the G923?
Not that I can find. TrueForce needs the game to send audio and physics data to the wheel, and RaceRoom is not on Logitech's list of supported titles as of October 2026. If that changes, I will update this page.