The Logitech G29 and G920 are the wheels most people start with, and F1 2021 works well on them. The motor is small, about 2 Nm, so the job of the settings is simple: do not waste that force on vibration.
Here is what I would set in G HUB and in the game.
G HUB settings
On PC, set the wheel in Logitech G HUB before you start the game.
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Operating range | 900 |
| Sensitivity | 50 |
| Centering spring | 20 |
Leave the range at 900 and let the game limit the rotation for the car. Sensitivity at 50 is linear, and that is what you want.
On PlayStation and Xbox there is no G HUB. The wheel uses its default values, and you go straight to the game menu.
F1 2021 force feedback settings for the G29 and G920
Go to Settings, then Controls, Vibration and Force Feedback. Select the wheel, press Edit and open Vibration and Force Feedback.
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Vibration and force feedback | On |
| Strength | 60 |
| On track effects | 20 |
| Rumble strip effects | 25 |
| Off track effects | 20 |
| Wheel damper | 5 |
| Understeer enhance | Off |
The values for the other wheels are in my F1 2021 wheel settings guide.
Why 60 and not 100
You will find guides that tell you to run 100 on this wheel. I would not, with the G HUB values above.
A small motor reaches its limit fast. When it is at the limit, a medium corner and a fast corner feel the same, because there is no force left to show the difference. That is clipping. At 60 the wheel is lighter, but you can feel the load build as the speed goes up. That is the information you need.
If 60 feels too light for you, go up in steps of 5 and stop when the fast corners start to feel the same.
Why the effects are low
The G29 uses gears. Gears rattle, and every vibration effect makes them rattle more. On track effects at 20 and rumble strip at 25 are enough to feel the bumps and the kerbs. More than that and the kerb noise covers the moment the rear tyres start to slide on the exit.
Wheel damper at 5
The damper adds a little weight at all times. On this wheel a small amount stops the rim from swinging left and right on the straights. Do not go higher than 10. It makes your hands slow.
Calibration settings
In the same screen, open Calibration.
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Steering deadzone | 0 |
| Steering linearity | 0 |
| Steering saturation | 0 |
| Throttle deadzone | 0 |
| Throttle linearity | 0 |
| Throttle saturation | 0 |
| Brake deadzone | 0 |
| Brake linearity | 0 |
| Brake saturation | 0 |
Everything at 0 is right for a wheel. There is one thing to check on this pedal set.
The Logitech brake pedal
The brake has a stiff rubber block behind it. The first half of the travel is easy, then it gets very hard. On a desk, with the pedals on the floor, many people never reach full pressure. The pedals slide away or the chair rolls back first.
Open the test screen in the calibration menu and push the brake as hard as you would in a race.
- The bar reaches 100. Leave brake saturation at 0.
- The bar stops at 80 or 90. Raise brake saturation step by step until your normal hard push shows 100.
Fix the pedals too. Put them against a wall, or strap them to the chair. A brake pedal that moves makes every braking point a guess.
If the throttle bar moves when your foot is off the pedal, add 1 or 2 of throttle deadzone. It happens on old pedal sets.
What to change when it does not feel right
One change at a time, three laps each.
| Problem | Change | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Fast corners all feel the same | Strength down to 50 | The motor is clipping |
| Wheel too light everywhere | Strength up 5 at a time, to 75 at most | More force, until it clips |
| Loud rattle on kerbs | Rumble strip effects down to 15 | The gears amplify the effect |
| Shaking on the straights | On track effects down to 10 | Less road noise |
| Wheel swings on the straights | Wheel damper up to 10 | A little more damping |
| Slow to catch a slide | Wheel damper to 0 | Nothing works against your hands |
| Front tyres lock too easily | Check the brake in the test screen, lower brake saturation | You reach 100 too early |
| Cannot reach full braking | Brake saturation up | 100 comes earlier in the pedal |
| Steering on screen does not match your hands | G HUB operating range back to 900 | The game sets the range from there |
G923
The G923 has about the same force as the G29, so I would start from the same numbers. I have not checked how the game handles its extra vibration system, so I am not going to give you values for that.
Next steps
- No setting replaces a good car. Every track is in my F1 2021 setups hub.
- Set the view: F1 2021 camera settings.
- Decide on traction control and anti lock brakes: F1 2021 assists and AI difficulty.
- Then the driving: F1 2021 tips.
- Same wheel, other games: F1 2020 Logitech settings and ACC Logitech settings.
FAQ
What are the best G29 settings for F1 2021?
G HUB at operating range 900, sensitivity 50 and centering spring 20. In the game: strength 60, on track effects 20, rumble strip 25, off track 20, wheel damper 5 and understeer enhance Off.
Are the G920 settings different from the G29?
No. The two wheels have the same motors and gears. Only the buttons and the console are different.
Why does my G29 feel light in F1 2021?
F1 cars in this game have light steering at low speed. Raise the strength in steps of 5. If you are on PC, check that G HUB has not lowered the wheel strength.
Should I change the wheel rotation for F1 2021?
Leave G HUB at 900 and let the game set the range for the car. An F1 car needs about 360° from lock to lock.
How do I stop locking the brakes with Logitech pedals?
Check the test screen first. If you reach 100 before the pedal is fully down, lower brake saturation. Then brake hard at the start and release the pedal as the car slows.
Do these settings work on PS4, PS5 and Xbox?
Yes. The game values are the same on every platform. On console you skip G HUB.