The force feedback menu in F1 2021 has seven lines. It looks simple, and still most people drive with a wheel that is either dead or shaking so much that they cannot feel the tyres.
The reason is that one set of numbers cannot fit every wheel. A Logitech G29 has about 2 Nm. A Fanatec Podium DD2 has 25 Nm. Here is what I would set on each, and how to adjust it.
F1 2021 force feedback settings by wheel
Go to Settings, then Controls, Vibration and Force Feedback. Select your wheel, press Edit and open Vibration and Force Feedback.
| Setting | Logitech G29 / G920 | Thrustmaster T300 / TX / TMX | Fanatec CSL DD | Fanatec Podium DD2 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Vibration and force feedback | On | On | On | On |
| Strength | 60 | 80 | 70 | 70 |
| On track effects | 20 | 35 | 20 | 25 |
| Rumble strip effects | 25 | 40 | 25 | 20 |
| Off track effects | 20 | 20 | 20 | 20 |
| Wheel damper | 5 | 10 | 0 | 0 |
| Understeer enhance | Off | Off | Off | Off |
These are starting values. Do five laps, then use the table further down to adjust.
Each wheel has its own page with more detail:
- F1 2021 Logitech G29 and G920 settings
- F1 2021 Thrustmaster T300, TX and TMX settings
- F1 2021 Fanatec CSL DD settings
- F1 2021 Fanatec Podium DD2 and CSL Elite settings
On a pad? You want my F1 2021 controller settings instead.
Why every guide gives you different numbers
If you search for G29 settings for this game, you find strength values from 45 to 100. Nobody is lying. They set the wheel driver differently.
The game strength is a multiplier. It multiplies the force that the wheel base is allowed to give. If the driver is at 100%, a game value of 60 is plenty. If the driver is at 75%, you need a higher game value for the same weight in your hands.
So never copy the game numbers alone. Copy the driver settings and the game settings from the same place. Mine are below.
Driver settings before you open the game
| Wheel | Driver settings |
|---|---|
| Logitech G29 / G920 (G HUB) | Operating range 900, sensitivity 50, centering spring 20 |
| Thrustmaster T300 / TX / TMX (control panel) | Rotation 900°, constant 100%, periodic 100%, spring 100%, damper 0%, auto center by the game |
| Fanatec CSL DD (tuning menu) | SEN Auto, FF 100, FFS Peak, NDP 25, NFR Off, NIN Off, INT 4, FEI 100, FOR 100, SPR 100, DPR 100 |
| Fanatec Podium DD2 (tuning menu) | SEN Auto, FF 45, FFS Peak, NDP 22, NFR 1, NIN 6, INT 2, FEI 100, FOR 100, SPR 100, DPR 100 |
On PlayStation and Xbox there is no G HUB and no Thrustmaster control panel. The wheel runs its default values and you only use the game menu. A Fanatec base keeps its tuning menu on the wheel itself, on every platform.
The DD2 runs FF at 45 on the base. That is a big motor at less than half of its force, and it is still heavier than anything else on this page. With a direct drive wheel you decide the total force on the base, and the game slider is for the last small steps.
Calibration settings
Same screen, the Calibration tab. With a wheel and pedals, everything stays at 0.
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Steering deadzone | 0 |
| Steering linearity | 0 |
| Steering saturation | 0 |
| Throttle deadzone | 0 |
| Throttle linearity | 0 |
| Throttle saturation | 0 |
| Brake deadzone | 0 |
| Brake linearity | 0 |
| Brake saturation | 0 |
A wheel is already a precise input. Deadzone, linearity and saturation are tools for thumbsticks and triggers. On a wheel they put a filter between your hands and the front tyres.
Use the test screen in the calibration menu to check your hardware. Press each pedal fully and look at the bar.
- The brake does not reach 100. Raise brake saturation until a full push shows 100. This is common on the Logitech pedals, where a stiff rubber block sits behind the brake.
- A bar moves when your foot is off the pedal. Add 1 or 2 of deadzone on that pedal. It is a worn sensor, not a setting problem.
- The car feels nervous on the straights with a direct drive wheel. Steering linearity at 5 calms the first degrees. I would try 0 first.
What each force feedback setting does
Vibration and force feedback strength. The total force, and the multiplier for everything below it. Too low and you feel nothing. Too high and the wheel clips. Clipping means the motor is already at its maximum, so a 150 km/h corner and a 250 km/h corner feel the same. You have lost the information you bought the wheel for.
On track effects. Bumps and the surface of the road. Some of it makes the car feel alive. Too much is noise on top of the tyres.
Rumble strip effects. The vibration on the kerbs. You want to know you are on one without looking. In this game you ride a lot of kerbs, and a high value shakes the wheel right at the exit, when you need to feel the rear.
Off track effects. Grass and gravel. You know you are off anyway. Keep it low so you can still steer the car back.
Wheel damper. Resistance that is always there, at any speed. A little makes a light gear driven wheel calmer on the straights. A lot makes your hands slow when the rear steps out. On direct drive I would run 0.
Understeer enhance. The wheel goes light when the front tyres slide. It is not what a real car does in that way, but it is a clear signal. I would leave it off and turn it on only if you cannot feel the front giving up.
Wheel rotation. An F1 car needs about 360° from lock to lock. Leave the driver at 900° or Auto and let the game set the range for the car. If the steering wheel on screen does not match your hands, that is the first thing to check.
What to change when it does not feel right
One change, three laps, same track. I would use a track with fast corners and big kerbs, like Barcelona or the Red Bull Ring.
| Problem | Change | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Fast corners all feel the same | Strength down 5 to 10 | The wheel is clipping |
| Wheel is light and tells you nothing | Strength up 5 to 10 | Not enough force |
| Shaking on the straights | On track effects down 10 | Road noise covers the tyres |
| Kerbs pull the wheel out of your hands | Rumble strip effects down 10 | The effect is too strong for the motor |
| Slow to catch a slide | Wheel damper down to 0 | The damper works against your hands |
| Wheel swings left and right on the straight | Wheel damper up 5 | A little damping stops it |
| You miss the moment the front slides | Understeer enhance On | The wheel goes light at that moment |
| Arms tired after twenty minutes | Strength down 10 | Too heavy to drive relaxed |
That last line matters more than people think. In a real car the steering is heavy because it has to be, not because it helps. In the sim you choose. Pick the lowest force at which you can still feel the front tyres load up on the way in. Relaxed hands are fast hands.
Next steps
Good feedback tells you what the car is doing. It does not make the car faster on its own.
- Set the view next: F1 2021 camera settings.
- Choose your help and the AI level: F1 2021 assists and AI difficulty.
- Get a car that suits the track in my F1 2021 setups hub.
- Then work on the driving with my F1 2021 tips.
- On another game: F1 2020 wheel settings and F1 22 wheel and FFB settings.
FAQ
What are the best wheel settings for F1 2021?
As a start: strength 60 on a Logitech G29 or G920, 80 on a Thrustmaster T300, TX or TMX, and 70 on a Fanatec CSL DD or Podium DD2. Keep the three effects between 20 and 40 and the wheel damper at 10 or less.
Why does my wheel feel so light in F1 2021?
Either the strength is too low or the wheel driver is turned down. Check the driver first, then raise the game strength in steps of 5 until you feel the weight build in fast corners.
What is clipping in F1 2021 force feedback?
The wheel is asked for more force than it can give. Everything above that limit feels the same, so you lose detail in the fastest corners. Lower the strength by 5 to 10.
Should understeer enhance be on or off in F1 2021?
Off for most drivers. Turn it on if you cannot feel when the front tyres start to slide. It makes the wheel go light at that moment.
Do I need deadzone or linearity with a wheel?
No. Leave all nine calibration sliders at 0. Raise brake saturation only if your brake pedal does not reach 100 in the test screen.
Are the wheel settings the same on PS5, Xbox and PC?
The game values are the same. On PC you also set the wheel in G HUB, the Thrustmaster control panel or the Fanatec software. On console the Logitech and Thrustmaster wheels run their defaults.
Is F1 2021 better with a wheel or a controller?
A wheel gives you more precision on the brake and the throttle, and that helps most over a race distance. The full comparison is in F1 2021 controller vs wheel.