These are the settings I would start from in Assetto Corsa Competizione with a Logitech G29 or G920. There are two places to set: Logitech G HUB on the PC, and the force feedback block inside the game. The two wheels are the same inside, so one set of numbers covers both.
I checked the values again on 5 October 2026 against the baselines the fast G29 drivers publish today. Some numbers on the old version of this page were wrong for a gear driven wheel, minimum force at 0% above all, and I have changed them.
The short version
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Gain | 100% |
| Minimum force | 10% |
| Dynamic damping | 25% |
| Road effects | 20% |
| Frequency | 400 Hz |
| Steer lock | 900 |
In G HUB: operating range 900, sensitivity 50, centering spring off.
Step 1: Logitech G HUB
Open G HUB with the wheel plugged in, click on the wheel and set this:
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Operating range | 900 |
| Sensitivity | 50 |
| Centering spring | Off (box not ticked) |
| Pedal sensitivity (clutch, brake, accelerator) | 50 |
| Combined pedals | Off |
The operating range is the one that matters. Leave it at 900, the full rotation of the wheel. ACC then sets the correct steering lock for each car by itself, as long as the steer lock in the game says 900 too.
Centering spring off. That spring is for games with no force feedback. ACC has its own, and the spring would fight it.
On PlayStation and Xbox there is no G HUB. The wheel runs at 900 degrees by default, so you go straight to step 2.
Step 2: ACC wheel settings
In the game go to Options, then Controls. Pick the wheel on the left and load the Logitech preset so the buttons are mapped. The force feedback values are on the same screen.
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Gain | 100% |
| Minimum force | 10% |
| Dynamic damping | 25% |
| Road effects | 20% |
| Frequency | 400 Hz |
| Steer lock | 900 |
| Steer linearity | 1.00 |
| Brake gamma | 1.00 to start |
| Gearshift debouncing | 50 ms |
| Manufacturer extras | On |
Why these numbers.
Gain 100%. The G29 gives you about 2 Nm. That is very little, so you want all of it. On a direct drive base you lower the gain to stop the signal from clipping. Here the motor is the limit, and you run it flat out.
Minimum force 10%. This is the important one. The G29 and the G920 are gear driven, and gears have a small dead zone around the centre where light forces do not reach your hands. Minimum force lifts every small force above that zone. At 0% the wheel feels empty in a straight line and in the first degrees of steering, which is where you feel the front tyres start to work.
Dynamic damping 25%. Damping adds resistance when the wheel moves fast. A weak wheel does not have force to waste on it. At 100% the steering feels heavy and slow and you lose detail. A little is enough to calm the wheel on the straights.
Road effects 20%. Bumps and surface, added on top of the physics signal. A bit of it helps on this wheel. Too much and the gears rattle and cover what the tyres are telling you.
Frequency 400 Hz. Use the highest value the game offers.
Manufacturer extras On. Leave it on. On the G923 this is the switch for TrueForce.
How to adjust from here
Change one value at a time and do five laps before you judge it.
| Problem | Change |
|---|---|
| Dead feeling around the centre | Minimum force up, 2% at a time, to 14% at most |
| The wheel shakes or rattles on the straights | Minimum force down by 2%, then dynamic damping up to 35% |
| The steering feels heavy and slow | Dynamic damping down to 10 or 0% |
| The kerbs and bumps are too loud | Road effects down to 10 or 0% |
| You cannot feel the surface at all | Road effects up to 30 or 40% |
| The force goes flat in long fast corners | Gain down to 90% |
The last row is clipping. With the gain at 100% the signal can hit the ceiling in the fastest corners, and above the ceiling everything feels the same. Switch on the FF bar in the HUD to see it. A flash over a kerb is fine. If it sits at the top through a whole corner, go down to 90%. My ACC HUD guide shows where the bar is.
Do not look for a heavy wheel. A GT3 car has power steering and the wheel is lighter than most people think. What you need to read is the change: the load building up when you turn in, and the moment it drops when the front lets go. This wheel can show you that if the settings are clean.
The brake pedal
The pedals are the weak point of this set, more than the force feedback.
The brake measures how far the pedal moves, not how hard you push, and the rubber block makes the end of the travel very stiff. So it is hard to reach 100% and hard to release with precision.
Three things help:
- Check that you reach 100%. Open the controls menu and push the brake as hard as you would in a real stop while you watch the brake bar. If it never gets to the top, you are giving away braking distance on every corner.
- Brake gamma. Start at 1.00, which is linear. If you still cannot reach full pressure without standing on the pedal, raise it in small steps. It changes the curve of the pedal, so do it once and then leave it. Your foot needs the same pedal every day to learn it.
- Fix the pedals to something. If the base slides on the floor when you brake, no setting will save you. Put it against a wall or bolt it to a stand.
In a GT3 car most of the lap time is in the braking. My guide to braking technique in ACC goes through how to do it with ABS.
Steering lock
900 in G HUB and 900 in the game. When they match, ACC gives each car its real steering lock, and the wheel on the screen turns like the one in your hands. You never change it when you switch car. The real lock of each GT3 and GT4 is in my ACC steering lock guide.
PS5, PS4 and Xbox
The G29 works on PlayStation and PC. The G920 works on Xbox and PC. On console the force feedback menu in ACC has the same main values, so use the same numbers and adjust with the table above.
Is the G29 good enough for ACC?
Yes. It is the wheel a lot of fast people started on. You get less detail than on a direct drive base and the brake takes work, but the information you need to drive a GT3 on the limit is there.
If you are thinking of the next step, read direct drive wheels explained first. For the general logic of the force feedback menu, and for other wheels, start from my ACC FFB settings guide. There are separate pages for Fanatec and Thrustmaster wheels, and a full Logitech G29 review.
FAQ
What are the best ACC settings for the Logitech G29?
Gain 100%, minimum force 10%, dynamic damping 25%, road effects 20%, frequency 400 Hz and steer lock 900 in the game. In G HUB: operating range 900, sensitivity 50 and centering spring off.
Are the settings the same for the G920?
Yes. The G920 is the Xbox version of the same wheel, with the same motors and the same pedals.
Can I use these settings on a G923?
As a start, yes. The G923 is very close to the G29 mechanically. Keep manufacturer extras on for TrueForce and adjust minimum force and road effects to taste.
What minimum force should I use on a G29 in ACC?
Around 10%. Go up in steps of 2% if the centre feels dead, and stop before the wheel starts to shake by itself on the straights.
What steering lock should I set for the G29 in ACC?
900 in G HUB and 900 in the game. ACC then matches the real steering lock of each car.
Why does my G29 rattle in ACC?
Minimum force or road effects are too high for the gears. Lower minimum force by 2% and road effects to 10%, then try again.
Does the Logitech G29 work with ACC on PS5?
Yes. The G29 works with ACC on PS4 and PS5, and the G920 on Xbox One and Xbox Series consoles.