Project CARS 2 Logitech G29 and G920 Wheel Settings

Project CARS 2 has one of the stranger force feedback menus in sim racing. Four sliders called Gain, Volume, Tone and FX, and no explanation in the game of what they do.

On a Logitech G29 or G920 the defaults feel heavy in the middle and tell you little. You can fix that in ten minutes. Here are the values I would start from, and what each slider does so you can adjust them yourself. Checked on 5 October 2026.

The settings at a glance

These are a starting point. Volume and Tone are meant to change from car to car. More on that below.

Can you still get Project CARS 2?

Not new. Slightly Mad Studios removed Project CARS 2 from sale on 21 September 2022 because car and track licences were expiring. The studio said at the time that the game would stay fully playable for people who own it, multiplayer included.

So this page is for owners. If you have it in your Steam library or on a disc, the wheel support is the same as it always was. The G29 works on PlayStation and PC, the G920 on Xbox and PC.

Step 1: Logitech G HUB (PC only)

On console there is nothing to do here. On PC, make a profile for the game in G HUB:

Two things matter.

Keep the range at 900. Project CARS 2 sets the right steering lock for each car by itself, but only if the wheel gives it the full range. If you limit the wheel to 540 in G HUB, a GT3 car and a road car both end up wrong.

Centering spring off. That spring is a fake force from the driver. It pulls the wheel to the middle all the time and covers what the game is sending. The game should be the only thing moving your wheel.

Step 2: calibrate in the game

This is the step people skip, and then they say the steering feels wrong.

Go to Options, Controls, Control Scheme. Choose the Logitech preset for your wheel, then run both calibrations:

1. Calibrate wheel. Turn the wheel all the way to one lock, then follow the prompt and hold it at 90 degrees. The game should read 900 as the steering lock. If it shows another number, do it again.
2. Calibrate pedals. Press each pedal to the floor once and release.

After this the game matches the rotation of your wheel to the car you are in. A Formula car gets a short lock, a road car a long one, and your hands always match the hands of the driver on screen.

Step 3: Configuration

In Options, Controls, Configuration:

Sensitivity at 50 means linear: what you do with your hands and feet is what the car gets. Speed sensitivity is an aid for gamepads that reduces steering as you go faster. On a wheel it has to be 0.

About deadzones. Start at 0. Only add a few points if a pedal on an older set does not go fully back to zero and the car drags the brake or keeps a little throttle. You can see it on the telemetry screen. If the pedals are clean, a deadzone only takes away travel you need.

If you find it hard to reach full braking on the stock pedal, lowering Brake sensitivity is not the answer. Recalibrate the pedals and press only as hard as you can repeat every lap. The game takes that as 100 percent.

Step 4: force feedback

In Options, Controls, Force Feedback:

Flavour

There are three presets, Immersive, Informative and Raw, plus Custom. Immersive and Informative add effects on top of the physics. Raw gives you the forces from the steering with the least added. The G29 and G920 are gear driven wheels with a small motor, around 2 Nm. They do not have the strength to show you many things at once, so I would give them the clean signal. Raw.

Gain

The master strength. On a wheel this size, keep it at 100 or close to it. You need all the force the motor has. Bring it down a little only for the cars that shake the wheel hard all the time.

Volume

This one has a confusing name. It is not loudness. It controls how strong the forces are around the centre of the wheel. High Volume makes the wheel heavy as soon as you turn in, and on a Logitech that weight uses up the motor before the tires have told you anything. Lower Volume keeps the middle lighter and leaves room for the build up in the corner.

That is why the old default feels dull. 30 to 50 is where most Logitech drivers end up. I would start at 40.

Tone

Tone is a balance between two things: at the low end more of the road surface, at the high end more of the tire load, which also makes the wheel heavier. 50 is an even mix. If you cannot feel the front tires start to slide, go up a few points. If the wheel is heavy and you lose the bumps and kerbs, go down.

FX

The extra vibrations: kerbs, surface detail. They are light forces. At 0 the wheel goes quiet over kerbs. Too high on a gear driven wheel and it rattles. 50 is a good middle.

Menu spring strength

Only how strongly the wheel centres itself in the menus. It does nothing on track.

Put Volume and Tone on buttons

The game is built for you to change Volume and Tone per car. A heavy GT car and a light Formula car do not want the same numbers.

Go to Options, Controls, Edit Assignments and bind Increase and Decrease for FFB Volume and FFB Tone to four buttons on the wheel. Then do it on track:

• Wheel feels heavy and dead in fast corners: Volume down 5.
• Wheel feels light and empty, no build up: Volume up 5.
• Cannot feel the front start to slide: Tone up 5.
• Cannot feel the road and the kerbs: Tone down 5.

Change one thing, do three laps, then decide. It is the same rule as a real test day. If you change two things at once you do not know which one helped.

Is the wheel clipping?

Clipping is when the game asks for more force than the motor can give. The wheel goes flat at the top and every big corner feels the same. With a small motor it happens easily.

The sign: in a long fast corner the wheel is heavy, but when you add more steering or hit a bump nothing changes. If you feel that, bring Volume down first, not Gain.

Going further: custom force feedback files

On PC, the fourth Flavour, Custom, reads a text file from your Documents, Project CARS 2 folder. The community has written replacement files for it over the years, and many Logitech owners prefer them to the three presets.

I would do the steps above first. They cost nothing and you learn what the sliders do. If you still want more detail after that, a custom file is the next thing to try. Keep a copy of the original file before you replace it.

The rest of your Project CARS 2 setup

• Field of view matters as much as force feedback for judging corners: Project CARS 2 FOV settings.
• Frame rate and wheel feel are linked. A stuttering game gives a stuttering wheel: Project CARS 2 graphics settings.
• Driving, not settings: Project CARS 2 tips.
• On a different wheel: Thrustmaster settings and Fanatec settings.
• Same wheel, other sim: ACC Logitech G29 and G920 settings.

FAQ

What are the best Project CARS 2 settings for the Logitech G29?

Start with G HUB at 900 degrees and centering spring off, calibrate in the game, then Flavour Raw, Gain 100, Volume 40, Tone 50, FX 50. Adjust Volume and Tone per car.

Are the settings the same for the G920?

Yes. The G29 and G920 are the same wheel inside with different buttons. The same values work on both, and on the G923.

Why does my wheel feel heavy and numb in Project CARS 2?

Volume is too high. It adds force around the centre and the small motor runs out of strength. Lower it 5 points at a time.

What does Tone do in Project CARS 2?

It balances road surface detail against tire load. Lower gives more road, higher gives more tire grip feeling and a heavier wheel. 50 is an even mix.

Why is the steering lock wrong?

The wheel was not calibrated in the game, or the range in G HUB is not 900. Set 900 in G HUB, then run Calibrate wheel in Control Scheme again.

Can I still buy Project CARS 2?

Not digitally. It was removed from sale on 21 September 2022. Copies you already own still work, and disc copies exist for console.

Should I use Raw, Immersive or Informative?

Raw on a G29 or G920. The wheel does not have the force to carry the extra effects of the other two without losing the detail you need.