The G29 and the G920 are the wheels most people start with, and Assetto Corsa is one of the best games to run them in. The force feedback of this sim is clean. The Logitech wheels are gear driven and not very strong. So the job is simple: send the wheel the pure signal, fix the dead area around the centre and keep the fake effects low.
These are the numbers I would start from. They are a baseline. Two or three clicks of difference between drivers is normal, and I give you the range to try for each one.
Assetto Corsa G29 and G920 settings
| Setting | Value | Range to try |
|---|---|---|
| Gain | 100% | Leave it. Trim each car with the per car FFB |
| Filter | 0% | 0 |
| Minimum force | 8% | 5 to 12 |
| Kerb effects | 20% | 0 to 30 |
| Road effects | 15% | 0 to 25 |
| Slip effects | 0% | 0 to 10 |
| ABS effects | 20% | 0 to 30 |
| Enhanced understeer effect | Off | Off |
| Half FFB update rate | Off | Off |
Short version of the logic. Gain, filter and minimum force shape the real force that comes from the tyres. Kerb, road, slip and ABS are effects added on top. On a real car the wheel does not buzz because the game decided you are sliding. It goes light. So I keep the added effects low and listen to the real signal.
Logitech G HUB settings
Set the wheel up in G HUB before you open the game.
| G HUB setting | Value | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Operating range | 900 | The game sets the lock of each car by itself. Give it the full range to work with |
| Sensitivity | 50 | 50 is linear. Anything else bends the steering |
| Centering spring in force feedback games | Off | The game already makes the self aligning force. A spring on top is a fake one |
| Centering spring strength | Not used | Only matters with the box ticked |
The old version of this page had the centering spring ticked at 10. I changed it. With the spring on, the wheel pulls to the centre with a force that has nothing to do with the car, and it covers the small details you bought the wheel for. Off is better.
If you are on a PS4, a PS5 or an Xbox there is no G HUB. The wheel runs at its defaults, which are the values above, and the console version of the game has a shorter list of force feedback options. Use the same gain and effect values where the sliders exist.
Where to find the settings in the game
Open Options, then Controls. Pick Wheel / Custom at the top and run the configuration wizard once: turn the wheel fully left and right, press each pedal to the floor. Then open the Advanced tab. Force feedback is on the left, steering and pedal settings on the right.
Minimum force: the setting that matters most
Gear driven wheels have friction inside. Small forces from the game never make it to your hands, so the wheel feels dead for the first degrees around the centre. That is the Logitech deadzone, and it is why the car feels vague on the straight and on corner entry.
Minimum force lifts the smallest forces above that friction. Here is how I would set it:
- Start at 8%.
- Drive a straight at medium speed and move the wheel a few degrees each way.
- If the centre still feels empty, go up two points.
- If the wheel starts to shake by itself with your hands off, go down two points.
Most wheels end up between 5 and 12. Yours depends on how worn the gears are, so an old G29 can need a little more than a new one.
There is a more precise way, with a LUT file. You measure the response of your own wheel with a tool like WheelCheck, build a correction table and load it in the game. It works. It also takes half an hour and a few files in the config folder. If you go that way, set minimum force back to 0, because the table does the same job. For most people minimum force alone is enough.
Gain and clipping, car by car
The main gain stays at 100%. The old version of this page said 65%. That number makes sense as a way to stop clipping, but it is the wrong tool. It makes every car weaker, including the ones that were fine.
Clipping is when the game asks for more force than the wheel can give. Everything above the limit feels the same, so in a fast corner the wheel turns into a wall and you lose the moment the front starts to slide. A GT3 car with a lot of downforce clips easily. A small road car does not.
So I would fix it per car:
- Open the Pedals app on track. It has a force feedback bar next to the throttle and brake.
- Drive the fastest corner of the track.
- If the bar goes red, press minus on the numpad a few times. That lowers the FFB for this car only.
- If the bar never gets past half, press plus.
You want the bar close to full in the heaviest corner and red only on kerbs and bumps. The game remembers the value for each car.
Steering and pedal settings
| Setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Steering gamma | 1.00 |
| Steering filter | 0.00 |
| Speed sensitivity | 0.00 |
| Brake gamma | 2.40 |
| Degrees of rotation in the wizard | 900 |
Gamma at 1.00 keeps the steering linear. Speed sensitivity is an aid for pads, at 0 the wheel does what your hands do. And you do not need to change the rotation for each car: with 900 set in G HUB and in the wizard, the game matches the lock of the car you pick. A formula car stops turning early, a road car uses the full range.
Brake gamma is personal. 2.40 is the default and it gives you a soft first half of the pedal, which helps with trail braking. If you cannot get to 100% without standing on it, lower the gamma toward 1.50 and try again. Braking is where the lap time is, so spend ten minutes here. My Assetto Corsa tips go deeper into braking and lines.
Does the G923 use the same settings?
Yes. The G923 has the same motors and gears. Its extra is TRUEFORCE, and the original Assetto Corsa does not support it, so in this game it behaves like a G29. Use the same table.
Can you be fast with a G29 in Assetto Corsa?
Yes. The wheel is not what holds you back at the start. A direct drive base gives you more detail and more force, and it makes long stints less of a guess. But the information you need to be quick is there on a G29: you feel the front go light, you feel the rear step out. What you have to learn is to read small signals. That is a good habit to have anyway.
Where the Logitech set does hurt is the brake pedal. If you upgrade one thing first, I would make it the pedals.
Problems and fixes
| Problem | Fix |
|---|---|
| Dead feeling around the centre | Raise minimum force two points at a time. Stop when the wheel starts to shake by itself on the straight |
| Wheel shakes on the straights | Minimum force is too high. Go down two points |
| Wheel feels the same in every fast corner | You are clipping. Lower the per car FFB with the minus key on the numpad |
| Wheel is light and vague | Raise the per car FFB with the plus key until the bar in the Pedals app is close to full in the fastest corner |
| Loud rattle over kerbs | That is the gears. Lower kerb effects, and road effects if it goes on |
| Steering does not match the car on screen | Run the configuration wizard again and turn the wheel the full 900 degrees |
| Cannot reach full brake pressure | Lower brake gamma toward 1.50, or calibrate the pedal with a slightly shorter push |
| Wheel pulls to the centre in the menus only | Normal. The centering spring is off, so the wheel is only alive on track |
Other Assetto Corsa settings
This page is for the Logitech gear driven wheels. For the general logic and for other bases, start from my Assetto Corsa wheel and FFB settings. I also have pages for Thrustmaster wheels and the Fanatec CSL DD. No wheel yet? The controller settings are here. And if the game stutters, fix that first with the graphics settings, because low frame rate ruins force feedback too.
FAQ
What are the best G29 settings for Assetto Corsa?
Gain 100%, filter 0%, minimum force around 8%, kerb effects 20%, road effects 15%, slip effects 0%, ABS effects 20%, enhanced understeer off and half FFB update rate off. In G HUB: 900 degrees, sensitivity 50, centering spring off.
Are the G920 settings different from the G29?
No. The two wheels are the same inside. Only the buttons and the console they work with are different.
What minimum force should I use on a G29?
Start at 8% and test between 5 and 12. Raise it until the centre feels alive, and lower it if the wheel shakes by itself on a straight.
Why does my G29 feel dead in the centre?
Friction in the gears swallows the small forces. Minimum force, or a LUT file made for your wheel, brings them back.
Should the centering spring be on in G HUB?
No. In a game with force feedback, the game creates the centering force from the tyres. The spring adds a second force that is not real.
How do I stop FFB clipping in Assetto Corsa?
Lower the force feedback of that car with the minus key on the numpad while you watch the FFB bar in the Pedals app. Leave the main gain at 100%.
What steering rotation should I use?
900 degrees in G HUB and in the configuration wizard. The game adapts the lock to each car.
Do these settings work for Assetto Corsa Competizione?
No. Competizione has a different force feedback menu and different values. Use a page written for that game.