The G29 and G920 are gear driven wheels with around 2 Nm of torque. In WRC 10 that means two things. You need every bit of force the motor has, and you need to choose which effects get it, because a small motor can't play all of them at once.
I've spent most of my life on circuits, in karts, F3, F2 and GT3, not on rally stages. What I look for in a wheel is the same in any car though: I want to feel the front tyres load up and I want to feel them let go. The settings below are the ones this page has recommended since 2022, and they are built around that. They work on the G29, the G920 and, as a starting point, the G923.
G29 or G920: which wheel on which platform
The two wheels share the same motor, gears and pedals. The difference is the buttons and the console they talk to.
| Wheel | Works on | Buttons |
|---|---|---|
| Logitech G29 | PlayStation and PC | PlayStation layout, rotary dial, rev lights |
| Logitech G920 | Xbox and PC | Xbox layout |
The old version of this page said the G920 works on PlayStation. It doesn't. If you play on PlayStation you need the G29, if you play on Xbox you need the G920.
Logitech G HUB settings (PC only)
On PC, open Logitech G HUB before you start the game and set the wheel up there first. On console there is no G HUB, so skip to the next section. The wheel still works properly, because everything that matters is in the game menu.
| G HUB setting | Value |
|---|---|
| Operating range | 900 |
| Sensitivity | 50 |
| Centering spring strength | 20 |
| Clutch sensitivity | 50 |
| Brake sensitivity | 50 |
| Accelerator sensitivity | 50 |
| Combined pedals | Off |
Leave the operating range at 900 here and limit the rotation in the game instead. That way the wheel behaves the same in every other sim you play and you only change one number per game.
Sensitivity 50 keeps the steering linear. Anything else bends the response curve, and then the car reacts differently in the first few degrees than it does in the middle of a corner.
Combined pedals has to be off. If it is on, throttle and brake share one axis and you can't left foot brake, which is half of rally driving.
WRC 10 force feedback settings
In the game go to Options, then Controls, then Settings with the wheel selected.
| Force and effects | Value |
|---|---|
| Max wheel angle | 540 |
| Overall force | 100 |
| Self aligning torque | 65 |
| Tyre load | 120 |
| Self centre | 45 |
| Recentre force | 50 |
Max wheel angle: 540
This is the one to get right. A rally car has a fast steering rack, and on a stage you go from lock to lock all the time. At 900 degrees you are crossing your arms in every hairpin and you are always late catching a slide. At 540 a quarter turn of the wheel is a real amount of steering, and a slide is something you can catch with your wrists.
If 540 still feels slow on tight tarmac stages, try 480. I would not go lower than that on a G29, because the steering gets too sharp around the centre on fast gravel.
Overall force: 100
On a direct drive base you turn this down. On a G29 you don't. The motor is small, so give it the full range and shape the feel with the individual effects below.
Self aligning torque: 65
This is the force that tells you what the front tyres are doing. It builds as the tyres load up and it goes light when they start to slide. It is the most useful signal you have, but at 100 on a gear driven wheel it fights you on every correction. 65 leaves it clear without making the wheel heavy.
Tyre load: 120
Tyre load adds weight to the wheel as the car leans on its tyres, in compressions and under braking. It is set above 100 on purpose. On a 2 Nm wheel this is what makes a fast, loaded corner feel different from a slow one.
If the wheel feels heavy and dull, with no detail in long corners, the motor is clipping. Bring tyre load down to 100 first, before you touch anything else.
Self centre 45 and recentre force 50
Self centre is the spring that pulls the wheel back to the middle while you drive. Recentre force is how hard the wheel returns when the car is reset or stopped. Both sit around the middle. Higher than that and you spend the stage fighting a spring that has nothing to do with the road.
WRC 10 vibration settings
| Vibration | Value |
|---|---|
| Overall vibration | 100 |
| Tyre slip | 35 |
| Suspension | 80 |
| Ground surface | 70 |
| Engine | 50 |
| Collision | 70 |
| Throttle pedal | 100 |
| Brake pedal | 100 |
Suspension and ground surface are high because they carry real information: bumps, ruts, a change from gravel to tarmac. Tyre slip is low because on this wheel it turns into a constant buzz that hides the self aligning torque.
The G29 and G920 are loud. The gears rattle on rough stages, and that is normal. If the noise bothers you or the people you live with, drop ground surface to 40 and engine to 20. You lose some texture and nothing that makes you faster.
The G29 and G920 pedals have no vibration motors, so I leave the throttle and brake pedal values at 100 and forget about them.
Pedal, steering and handbrake settings
| Input | Sensitivity | Deadzone | Saturation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Accelerate | 0 | 0 | 100 |
| Brake | 0 | 1 | 100 |
| Clutch | 0 | 1 | 100 |
| Steer left | 0 | 1 | |
| Steer right | 0 | 1 | |
| Handbrake | 0 |
Sensitivity 0 is linear, and linear is what you want on a wheel and pedals. Your foot learns one relationship between travel and brake pressure and it never changes.
The small deadzone on the brake and clutch stops a resting foot from dragging the brake down a whole stage. If your pedals are older and the game shows a little throttle or brake with your feet off, raise the deadzone to 3 or 4.
The stiff brake pedal
The brake on these pedals gets very hard towards the end of its travel. If you can't reach full braking without standing on it, lower the brake saturation to 85 or 90. The game then reads 100 percent braking earlier in the travel.
Don't go much lower. On loose surfaces you need to modulate the brake, and a short pedal makes that harder.
The handbrake
Without a separate handbrake, bind it to a button you can reach without moving your hand. On the G29 I'd use Circle, on the G920 the B button, both next to your right thumb. A button is on or off, so tap it to rotate the car into a hairpin and get straight back on the throttle.
What to change if the wheel feels wrong
| What you feel | Change |
|---|---|
| Crossing your arms in hairpins | Max wheel angle to 480 |
| Car too nervous on fast gravel | Max wheel angle to 600 |
| Wheel heavy and numb in long corners | Tyre load to 100 |
| Wheel fights every correction | Self aligning torque to 55 |
| Wheel too light, no feel for the front | Self aligning torque to 75 |
| Constant rattle that hides the detail | Ground surface to 40, tyre slip to 20 |
| Can't reach full braking | Brake saturation to 85 or 90 |
Change one value at a time and drive the same stage after each change. A short tarmac stage is the best place to test, because the grip is consistent and you feel the difference straight away.
Before you blame the settings
A lot of what feels like bad force feedback is the car setup or the way you drive the stage. Three things to check:
- Start in a WRC 3 or Junior WRC car. They move around less and you can feel what each setting does.
- Check the frame rate. Force feedback gets vague when the game stutters. My WRC 10 graphics settings are built around a stable frame rate.
- Read the WRC 10 tips for braking and weight transfer. A car that is set up on its nose before the corner feels completely different through the wheel.
Other WRC 10 settings pages
The general explanation of every option in the menu is on the WRC 10 wheel settings page. For other hardware:
- WRC 10 Thrustmaster settings
- WRC 10 Fanatec settings
- WRC 10 controller settings
- WRC 10 and WRC 9 keyboard controls
If you use the same wheel in other sims, I have G29 and G920 settings for iRacing, Assetto Corsa Competizione, Assetto Corsa and Gran Turismo 7.
FAQ
What is the best wheel rotation for WRC 10 on a G29 or G920?
540 degrees, set with max wheel angle in the game. Go to 480 for tight tarmac stages if you still cross your arms, and up to 600 if the car feels nervous on fast gravel.
Does the Logitech G920 work with WRC 10 on PlayStation?
No. The G920 is for Xbox and PC. The PlayStation version is the G29, which also works on PC.
Do I need Logitech G HUB for WRC 10?
Only on PC. On console the wheel is set up entirely in the game menu, and the values on this page are the same.
Why does my G29 feel weak in WRC 10?
Check that overall force is at 100 and that self aligning torque has not been turned down. If the wheel is heavy but has no detail, it is clipping, so lower tyre load to 100.
Do these settings work on the Logitech G923?
Yes, as a starting point. The G923 uses the same gear driven mechanism and a similar pedal set, so the wheel angle, force and pedal values carry over.
Why is my G29 so loud on gravel stages?
The gears rattle when the game sends a lot of small, fast vibrations. Lower ground surface and engine vibration and it gets much quieter.
Should I use a deadzone on the steering?
Keep it at 1 or lower. A wheel does not need a steering deadzone, and a big one makes the car vague around the centre.
Do these settings work in WRC 9 or WRC Generations?
The menus are close, so they are a fair starting point. Check max wheel angle and self aligning torque first, because those two change the feel the most.